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Breitling Premier
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MovementAutomatic, calibres B09 / B01 / B15 / B25
Diameter36 / 40 / 42 mm
Thicknessapprox. 12-14 mm depending on the version
Water resistance5-10 bar (50-100 m)
Weightvaries by case and bracelet

Premier

Breitling's first step outside aviation, toward city elegance

Model History

The Premier debuts in 1943 through the will of Willy Breitling, who senses that the postwar market is ready for a return to formal elegance after years dominated by purely instrumental watches. It is the manufacture's first collection not born for aeronautical or sporting use: more compact cases, between 32 and 38 mm according to the original references, available both in steel and solid gold, and an aesthetic language designed for city attire rather than the cockpit. In the same year of its launch Breitling also presents within the line the Duograph, a refined split-seconds chronograph (with an independent stop pushpiece), later followed by the Datora, fitted with a full calendar and moon phases: two complications that show the line's elegance did not give up mechanical sophistication at all.

After a long period of absence from the catalogue, the collection is relaunched in 2018 on the occasion of important brand anniversaries, bringing back into production a refined vintage aesthetic with proportions closer to contemporary tastes: clean dials, leaf hands, steel or red gold cases and a Milanese mesh or leather bracelet that explicitly recalls the sartorial taste of the 1940s and 1950s.

In the current range the Premier exists in several configurations, from the base three-hand model to reissues of historic complications: the Premier B15 Duograph takes up the original split-seconds function, while the Premier B25 Datora reintroduces the full calendar and moon phases, confirming the line as the space in the Breitling catalogue dedicated to classic elegance rather than technical instrumentation.

Technical Specifications

Movement
Calibre B09 (40 mm), B01 (42 mm) or B15/B25 complications
Case
36-42 mm, steel or 18kt red gold
Dial
Sober, leaf hands, applied indices
Complications
Split-seconds chronograph (Duograph), full calendar and moon phases (Datora)
Crystal
Anti-reflective sapphire
Bracelet
Milanese mesh, leather or flat-link steel
Power reserve
Approx. 42-70 hours depending on the calibre
Origin
Introduced in 1943, relaunched in 2018

Main Executions

Premier Duograph (1943)Original split-seconds chronograph, among the line's first complicationshistoric
Premier B01 Chronograph 42Chronograph version with manufacture calibre, reference of the current rangecurrent production
Premier B25 DatoraFull calendar with moon phases, reissue of the historic complicationcurrent production
Premier Automatic 36/40Three-hand version without chronograph, the most sober of the linecurrent production
Fun Fact

The Premier remains Breitling's only major historic line not born from an aeronautical or underwater need: its reason for being, since 1943, is purely aesthetic — an almost unique case in the catalogue of a brand that has built its identity around professional instrumentation.