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Rolex Submariner
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MovementAutomatic, Calibre 3235 (current versions)
Diameter40 / 41 mm (changed over time)
CaseOyster, Oystersteel
Water resistance300 m (current versions)
Line launched1953

Submariner

The dive watch that defined the category for all of Swiss watchmaking

Model History

The Submariner was launched in 1953 as a professional tool for divers, at a time when scuba diving was moving from a military application to a sporting and industrial one. The very first examples, references 6204 and 6205, were already produced that year, but it was at the 1954 Basel watch fair that the Submariner was officially unveiled to the public, with a declared water resistance of 100 metres — at the time, the first wristwatch guaranteed waterproof to that depth.

Over the course of the 1950s and 60s the line evolved rapidly: reference 6538 (1958-1961), with its oversized crown and famous "Mercedes" hands, became the model worn by Sean Connery in his first four films as James Bond, doing no small amount to boost the Submariner's popularity well beyond the professional diving world. The following reference 5513, produced for almost three decades until 1990, cemented the line's now-iconic look, while in 1966 reference 1680 introduced the date function for the first time, along with the Cyclops lens on the crystal, giving rise to the "Submariner Date" variant alongside the no-date version.

Later references brought a steady increase in water resistance and refinement of materials: the 16610, produced from 1988 to 2010, pushed water resistance to 300 metres, while more recent generations introduced the so-called "Super Case" with reinforced lugs, the Oysterlock bracelet with Glidelock extension, and the Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert, first introduced on other Rolex models and later extended to the Submariner too. Today the line includes both the no-date version and the Submariner Date, both powered by Rolex's in-house Calibre 3235.

Technical Specifications

Movement
Calibre 3235, automatic, Rolex manufacture
Case
Oyster, Oystersteel, 40 or 41 mm depending on version
Bezel
Unidirectional rotating, Cerachrom ceramic insert
Crystal
Sapphire, with Cyclops lens on the Date version
Water resistance
300 m (current versions)
Bracelet
Oyster with Oysterlock clasp and Glidelock extension
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds; date on the Submariner Date version
Original use
Professional tool for underwater diving

Notable References

Ref. 6538Large crown, Mercedes hands; worn by Sean Connery in the early James Bond films1958–1961
Ref. 5513No-date version, produced for almost three decades1962–1990
Ref. 1680First Submariner with date function and Cyclops lenssince 1966
Ref. 16610Water resistance raised to 300 metres, very long production run1988–2010
Fun Fact

Sean Connery wore a reference 6538 Submariner in his first four films as James Bond, between 1962 and 1965: a pairing born by chance on set that became part of the model's mythology, long before watches became the subject of official film collaborations.