25H

Presented in 2021, to coincide with the house's centenary, 25H marks the moment when Gucci Timepieces stopped relying on movements supplied by third parties — including, in the past, calibers from fellow Kering house Girard-Perregaux — to offer its first watch built around a manufacture caliber developed and produced entirely within the Kering group. The collection's name refers to an imaginary hour, the twenty-fifth, evoked by creative director Alessandro Michele as the idea of time "extra" to the conventional kind.

Aesthetically the collection breaks with the tradition of round cases that had characterized most of the brand's earlier output, introducing a 40 mm cushion-shaped case with a slim three-tier profile, a crown recessed into the edge, and an integrated five-link bracelet with a butterfly clasp: a language closer to the codes of contemporary high-end watchmaking than to those of the brand's earlier fashion collections.

At the heart of the collection is the GG727.25 caliber, an automatic micro-rotor movement developed at the Kering group's watchmaking manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, available both in a three-hand version and, in the more ambitious executions, with a flying tourbillon on display in a gold or platinum case: a leap in technical ambition that places 25H in a price bracket and market position clearly above the rest of the Gucci catalog.