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Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece
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MovementIn-house "ML" calibers (ML106, ML230, ML291 depending on execution)
CaseAbout 38-45 mm, steel or gold
ComplicationsSquare wheel, mysterious seconds, triple retrograde, among others
CasebackSapphire, exposed movement
In production since1990 (as "Les Mécaniques," renamed in 1992)

Masterpiece

The brand's manufacture collection: original complications developed "intelligently," not at any cost

Line History

The line was born in 1990 under the name "Les Mécaniques," conceived from the start as the most ambitious showcase of the Maurice Lacroix catalog: mechanical watches with visible complications, meant to signal to the market that the brand was not just a maker of affordable watches, but a company capable of competing in the field of haute horlogerie. In 1992 the collection was renamed Masterpiece, the name by which it is still known today. The first executions of the 1990s looked mainly to classic tradition: gold or two-tone cases, worked white dials, a rather conservative aesthetic language that over the course of the 2000s was progressively updated toward a more contemporary image, more consistent with the brand's actual price positioning.

The decisive qualitative leap came starting in the 2010s, when the Masterpiece became the ground on which Maurice Lacroix experimented with complications that were unusual and visually spectacular rather than simply expensive. In 2010 the Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde debuted, the world's first watch to replace the seconds hand with a gear with squared rather than rounded teeth — a result made possible by the precision of the machine tools at its subsidiary Manufacture des Franches-Montagnes. These were followed, in 2013, by the Masterpiece Mysterious Seconds, with a seconds disc that appears to float with no visible support, and in 2014 by the Masterpiece Gravity, which introduces silicon escapement components.

Behind these complications there is almost never a movement developed from scratch, but a philosophy that the brand itself describes as "working intelligently": the ML106 caliber that equips the first chronograph executions stems from a modification of the Venus 175 carried out together with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler (jokingly nicknamed "the owl movement" for the layout of its counters); the ML291 caliber of the Triple Retrograde, instead, starts from a Sellita SW200-1 base, extensively reworked with additional modules. It is an approach that allows Maurice Lacroix to offer haute horlogerie complications — square wheels, mysterious seconds, multiple retrogrades — at a price that remains in the thousands, not the tens of thousands, of Swiss francs, confirming the brand's reputation as one of the best value propositions in complicated Swiss watchmaking.

Technical Specifications

Movement
In-house "ML" calibers on a proprietary or heavily modified base
Case
Steel or gold, about 38-45 mm depending on execution
Crystal
Sapphire, transparent caseback
Dial
Often skeletonized or with an exposed complication
Complications
Vary by execution: square wheel, mysterious seconds, triple retrograde, silicon escapement
Price range
Roughly CHF 4,000 – 10,000
Original name
"Les Mécaniques" (1990), renamed Masterpiece in 1992
Inspiration
Complicated haute horlogerie at an accessible price

Main Executions

Masterpiece Roue Carrée SecondeML134/ML234 caliber, squared-tooth gear in place of the seconds handsince 2010
Masterpiece Mysterious SecondsSeconds disc apparently suspended with no visible supportsince 2013
Masterpiece GravityML230 caliber, silicon escapement componentssince 2014
Masterpiece Triple RetrogradeML291 caliber (Sellita SW200-1 base), retrograde date, day and second time zonecurrent production
Fun Fact

The Masterpiece Roue Carrée Seconde was the world's first watch to use a non-circular gear in place of the traditional seconds wheel: a solution that industry observers have called visually even more mesmerizing than a tourbillon, made possible only thanks to the precision machinery of the components manufacture that Maurice Lacroix controls directly in the Swiss Jura.